My mom, Sheila, has become very good at journaling about her trips with us since she then goes home and creates wonderful scrapbooks with our treasured memories. This trip was no exception. She was very dedicated to write down her adventures every night before she fell asleep, then once they returned home she has typed them all up, did research to add historical significance to some sights and this time even included traditional German recipes for all the food we ate. I can’t wait to see how this scrapbook turns out! Since she has done such a wonderful job, I’m “borrowing” just a sampling of her journaling to create my blog.
Dec. 23rd, 2009
(Ok, I’ve already mentioned the worst part of the trip. Luckily only the first two hours, which included delayed flights, destroyed luggage, stolen jewelry, incorrect rental car and my father running over my husband’s foot…so we’ll just gloss over those details, get on the road and to the enjoyable rest of the trip.) We proceeded on our two hour drive to Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber (literally, "red castle on the Tauber"). At the Marketplaz we found the Christmas market where we had Gluhwien, (glow wine) a hot wine, which nobody especially cared for. I like the smell of it and enjoy holding a steaming hot cup on a cold winter’s night, but not so much the taste. Jim and Seth had brats (mmmm bratwurst), while Kristal and I had wiener hose or meter long brats. Those were fun to eat! We all had the Schneeballen (snowball), which is a Rotherburg specialty.
Our bed and breakfast was inside the city wall and was built
in 1521. It was very cozy, although we
all had to share a room together. I’m
sure, just the thing Seth wanted to do with the man that just ran him over. Being
jet lagged, I unfortunately awoke at 3AM and decided to shower not realizing it
was so early. I broke the shower head in
the process so we all had to shower with just the hose. After my shower I figured out that it was the
middle of the night so I laid down again until Seth's alarm went off, he had
forgotten to adjust for the time zone change so instead of 5:30 it was only
4:30. But no one realized this until everyone
else had gotten up and showered. Then we
realized that it was only 5:30 AM (not 6:30) and breakfast wasn’t until
7AM. So we all went back to sleep for
another hour and a half. Once it was 7AM
the hotel cat came around meowing. If we
would have known that the hotel had its own alarm clock system we would have
all just slept till the cat.
Dec. 24th, 2009 Christmas Eve
We continued along the Romantic Road toward Nurnberg today. The Romantische Strasse or Romantic Road is
220 miles in length. The name isn't
meant for lovebirds but rather means, wonderful, fabulous and imaginative
having started as a road on which the Romans traveled. The route winds through medieval towns,
villages, castles and churches. The
concept began after World War II to attract tourist to the region. This area did not contain industrial plants
or areas of military interest so they were spared destruction during the war. Prior to World War II the area's economic
base had been destroyed by the Thirty Year War, thereby preventing
modernization of the area. These factors
preserved the towns in their historic state.
The Romantic Road begins in Wurzburg and winds its way down to
Fussen.
Once in Nurnberg we headed straight to the
Christkindlesmarket (Christ-child-market) in the old city center, Hauptmarket,
we didn’t have much time since it closed at 2:00. Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmarkte) date
back to at least the 14th century. Well
into the 20th century they were the only time to buy seasonal items, such as
baking molds and decorations. The most
famous Christmas market is the Nurnberg Christkindlesmarkt. It is at least 375 years old making it one of
the oldest, and with over 200 vendors it is also one of the largest.
We arrived just in time to see the Mannleinlaufen strike 12
noon. The Mannleinlaufen is a clock
dating from 1509 and every day at noon the seven electors of the Holy Roman
Empire glide out of the clock to bow to Emperor Charles IV before sliding back
under cover. The clock is on
Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) built in 1350 by Roman Emperor Charles
IV. The site was originally the Jewish
quarter until Charles IV had it burned, killing 500 Jews, making way for the
central market.
Within those 2 hours we had time to stimulate their economy
by buying 3 sets of the Holy Family wood carvings. It is a set with many additional pieces which
we hope to add to each year. Germany,
especially southern Germany, is known for its wood carving and wooden nativity
sets. Seth and Kristal also got a wooden
Advent calendar which plays a music box when the doors are opened. The Advent calendar (Der Adventskalender) is
a German invention designed to involve children in the time leading up to
Christmas. The first hand-crafted Advent
calendars were produced in the mid 19th century. The first printed calendar appeared in Munich
in 1903.
On the corner of the Hauptmarket market square is the
Schoner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain).
Carved around the year 1400, the elegant 60 foot high Gothic fountain is
adorned with 40 figures arranged in tiers.
The gold ring is set into the railing surrounding the fountain,
reportedly placed there by an apprentice carver. Touching it is said to bring good luck.
Kristal remembered from her trip in high school that you had to turn it three
times, so that's what we did.
Just as the market was closing we were able to get sausages
and lebkuchen (gingerbread cookies), then we took a walking tour of Nurnberg
starting at the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle), once the residence of the Holy
Roman emperors. The oldest part of the
complex was built in 1050. Also on our
walking tour was the house of the great painter Albrecht Durer who lived there
from 1509 to 1528.
Dec. 25th, 2009 Christmas
Since it was Christmas day we weren’t planning
that much would be opened today and so planned to spend the day leisurely
driving the Romantic Roadand
stopping and several of the quaint little towns along the way. First we stopped at Dinkelsbuhl a beautifully
preserved medieval town which is less tourist-oriented than Rothenburg. The Munster St. Georg (Minister St. George)
is a focal point of the town.
Then
we set off for Nordlingen, which has it entire city wall still intact and you
can walk along the top of it around the entire town. We set off along the top and walked half way
around, and then wandered through the streets
Nordlingen
lies in the center of a huge, basin like depression, the Ries, that until the
beginning of this century was believed to be the remains of an extinct
volcano. In 1960 it was proven by two
Americans that the 24-km-wide (15 mile wide) crater was caused by a meteorite
at least 1/2 mile in diameter. The
compressed rock, or Suevit, formed by the explosive impact of the meteorite was
used to construct many of the town's buildings, including St. Georg's
tower. You could see the crater rim best
from the tower. At the center of town is
St. Georg church or "The Daniel" as the locals refer to it. We climbed the 365 steps which were concrete
spiral steps the first half but then turned to wooden switch back steps the
last half. It was quite scary to climb
up.
Dec. 26th, 2009
As we approach Dauchu we see our first glimpse of the
Alps. Dachau is infamous worldwide as
the site of the first Nazi concentration camp.
The camp is the site where more than 30,000 of the 200,000-plus
prisoners lost their lives. The
atmosphere at Dauchau was reverent and somber.
One is left to wonder how man's inhumanity to his fellow man could be allowed to
reach that extent.
I wondered what life was like for my Great Grandparents and
how they came to the United States and what my Grandparents thought of the
reports of what was happening in Germany during the war. What did they think of their sons fighting
against their homeland? What records I
have indicate my Great Grandparents were from Westphalia, Germany, which I have
found a region called North Rhine-Westphalia in what is now Lower Saxony. I remember that my mother said they spoke
"low German" and that she did not speak English until she started to
school.
We then walked around the town of Dauchu and visited Schloss
Dachau, the hilltop castle, with views of the Alps and Munich, dominates the
town. Only one wing of the palace
remains having been built for the Wittelsbach ruler Max Emanuel in 1715.
Dec. 27th, 2009
We took the train into Munich. Our first stop was to watch the glockenspiel
which plays daily at 11, noon and 9PM.
As the chimes peal out over the square, the clock's doors flip open and
brightly colored dancers and jousting knights act out two events from Munich's
past: a tournament held in Marienplatz in 1568 and the Schafflertanz (Dance of
the Cooper's), which commemorated the end of the plague of 1517.
We took the tram to the Flugwerft Schleissheim (flight
museum). Jim was somewhat disappointed
in the aircraft museum, in that they didn't have more German versus American
aircraft.
And of course no trip to Munich is complete without dinner
at the Hofbrauhaus with it's oompah band - the father of all beer halls. In 1589 Duke Wilhelm V founded a brewery at
the royal residence and it continued until 1808. Maximilian I built his brewery in 1607 and
Ludwig I decreed that it should be open to the public in 1828, thus laying the
foundation of today's Hofbrauhaus.
Measuring 11,000 square meters the Hofbrauhaus that we know today was
opened on Sept. 22 1897. It can seat
3,000 people and with hundreds of waiters and waitress it can accommodate as
many as 30,000 people a day. Over it's
400 year history it has had regulars such as Mozart and visitors from all over
the world. In January 1823, Munich's
opera house caught fire and since the fire brigade's water had frozen the
Hofbrauhaus sent large barrels of beer to put out the fire. During the Thirty Year War the Hofbrauhaus
gave 362 buckets of beer to the conquering Swedish army and was therefore not
destroyed. It was not so lucky during
the wartime bombing of World War II when 60% of the building was destroyed.
In Germany, they don’t serve tap water in restaurants and
most bottled water is mineral water and more expensive than soda. The soda is also more expensive then the
beer. So I finally had to concede and
acknowledge the fact that Kristal did indeed HAVE to drink lots of beer while
she was studying here in college…it was simply the most economical thing to do.
Dec. 28th, 2009
We once again took the train to Munich today and then a tram
to Schloss Nymphenburg. Nymphenburg Palace on the
outskirts of Munich was the summer residence of Bavaria's electors and
kings. In 1664 when construction began it was surrounded by open
countryside. Over the years the palace and gardens have been expanded and
remodeled extensively with each successive ruler by an army of architects,
artist, painters, sculptors, landscapers. Radiating out from the focal
main pavilion is the "ideal town" with the residence of the royal
family, stables and a dairy, kitchens and butcher's facilities, rooms for
artists and craftsmen, palace chapel and monastery, a mill and a porcelain
factory. To this day members of the royal family live here and the
porcelain factory is in operation as it continues to be one of the most
extensive palace complexes with its lavish display of wealth and power.
Bavaria's "fairy-tale king,
Ludwig II was born here and spent much of his youth here. King Ludwig I's
Gallery of Beauties is a series of portraits done between 1827 and 1850
reflecting Ludwig I's ideal of beauty rather than social rank of the
sitters. The daughter of a cobbler is included in the collection.
It occurred to me that all of the beauties had very straight noses. The
Koch nose would not have been attractive to Ludwig I.
We then headed back to the main
part of Munich to the Fussgangerzone or pedestrian zone which is a mile long
central shopping area and got some roasted hot chestnuts. We had 10 to
share between the 4 of us and had a surplus. Soft and chewy is not
appropriate in our minds for a nut. Although they were not a favorite for
any of us, we can at least say we tried them.
Dec. 29th, 2009
We left Augsburg and drove in a
wintry mix to Ettal to see the Kloster Ettal. It was founded by Holy
Roman Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian for a group of knights and a community of
Benedictine monks. This is the largest Benedictine monastery in Germany:
approximately 55 monks live here. The
church's chief treasure is its enormous dome (83 feet wide) depicting
heaven. Ettal liqueurs, made from a centuries-old recipe, are still
distilled at the monastery. The monks make seven different liqueurs, some
with more than 70 mountain herbs. Originally the liqueurs were made as
medicines, and the have legendary health-giving properties. Their ad
is "Two monks know how it's made, 2 million Germans know how it
tastes."
From Ettal we went to Schloss
Linderhof. Built between 1870 and 1879 on the spectacular grounds of his
father's hunting lodge, Schloss Linderhof was the only one of Ludwig II's royal
residences to have been completed during the monarch's short life. It was
the smallest of the king's castles, but his favorite retreat as a reclusive
monarch. The palace's main inspiration came from the Sun King of France,
Louis XIV, who is portrayed in numerous pieces of art. This castle has
several impressive features including the dining room which features a table that
rises from and descends to the kitchen below so that Ludwig could eat his meals
in private and a huge artificial grotto in which scenes from Wagner opera were
performed, with full lighting effects to create the illusion of a royal dream
world. After seeing a few of his castles and learning a little be about
Bavaria’s “Fairy Tale King” we all go very interested in learning more about
King Ludwig II and also about Richard Wagner who influenced him so much.
Seth and Kristal had a snowball fight.
Dec. 30th, 2009
Today we were four more of the one
million people to visit Neuschwanstein Castle. With the background of the
Thannheim mountains, Poellat Gorge and the two lakes; the Alp Lake and Swan Lake make Neushwanstein a very picturesque and romantic setting. We
arrived early morning and bought our ticket and still had over an hour wait,
which we spent walking up to the castle and taking pictures along the
way. The walk took about 40 minutes.
After 17 years of construction,
Ludwig II only spent a total of 108 days at Neuschwanstein Castle and work
stopped when he was taken away and died. The castle is a symbol of the
mysterious life and death of the King Ludwig II and one of the most recognized
symbols of Germany and top attractions. This castle was conceived by a
set designer instead of an architect, thanks to King Lidwig II's deep love of
the theater. The castle soars from its mountainside like a stage
creation - it should hardly come as a surprise that Walt Disney took it as the
model for his castle in the movie Sleeping Beauty and later for the Disneyland
castle itself.
Above the Poellet Gorge with
it's 149 foot high falls is the Marienbrucke (Queen Mary's Bridge).
At a height of 304 feet, the bridge is older than the castle. It was
named after Ludwig's mother, Queen Mary, when it was rebuilt in 1866.
It had rained for several hours
during the night and there was still heavy fog and mist. The walkway to
the bridge was closed and there was still ice on the path but quit a few people
including ourselves climbed around the barricades and braved the icy
sidewalk. This will probably be one of Seth’s most memorable experiences
during this trip that his mother-in-law was the one persuading the rest of the
group to break the rules and go around the barricades. But it was totally worth it for the pictures.
On our way to the bridge we had a
good view of the Hohenschwangau castle.
We did later go walk around the Hohenschwangau castle. Built by the knights of Schwangau in the 12th
century, the castle was remodeled by King Ludwig II's father, the Bavarian
crown prince (and later king) Maximilian, between 1832 and 1836 after it had
been heavily damaged during the Napoleonic wars. Unlike Neuschwanstein,
the yellowish Schloss Hohenschwangau has the feeling of a noble home, where comforts
would be valued as much as outward splendor.
We don’t get every single movie that comes out in the States but we do get most of the major box office hits. However, when we get them is a crap shoot. It could be months later after the release date in the States or only a few weeks and sometimes on the very rare occasion within the same week for some major releases. For instance, we got Avatar the same week it was released in the States and without the long lines and impossible to get tickets. (Yes, we’ve already seen Avatar, and in 3-D! In Egypt!)
All movies play at the same time of 1:00pm, 4:00pm, 7:00pm, 10:00pm and 1:00am. When you buy your tickets you pick your reserved seats. We love this. The ticket price varies by the vicinity of your seat. However, the ticket prices are still incredibly cheap, only 25 LE or the equivalent of $4.60 USD. We don't have to take out a loan to by movie theater popcorn and soda either. One feature that we don’t care for is the intermission in every single show. They always seem to stop the movie right in the middle of the most critical scene. There is some censoring but what they censor doesn’t ever seem to be consistent.
Seth and I had the most wonderful surprise when we returned back to school; we had nine Christmas cards waiting in our mailbox! That about tripled the amount of mail we’ve gotten the entire time we’ve been in Egypt. Seth and I love getting mail here and it truly makes our day. We do our “we’ve got mail” happy dance in front of our mailbox every time. The best part about getting mail here is that it is never junk mail or bills but only loving letters from friends and family.
So a big thank you to everyone who sent us a lovely Christmas card and also all the precious pictures included.
(Psst….did you know that it cost less than $1.00 and only about 10 days to send a letter to us. The next time we get a happy surprise in our mailbox I might just video tape our “we’ve got mail” happy dance and sent it to the person who made us so happy)
We were fortunate to have another visiting author come to Schutz. Her name is Michele Serros, a Mexican-American author from California. She is actually a personal friend of the Bob and Ana Medina, our art and drama teachers, and came with her husband Dean to visit Bob and Ana in Egypt and travel to Morocco with them for Christmas break. While she was here she was gracious enough to do a presentation for our students the last day before break. However, just like when Tom Palmer was here, the school was shut down due to H1N1 and there were no students around for our visiting author to present to. We’ve decided the best way to combat this H1N1 virus is to stop inviting authors to our school.
Michele was a lot of fun to meet. She is so kind, fun, very out-going and a little eccentric! Check out her website to see what I mean http://www.muchamichele.com/ Michele was named News Weeks “One of the Top Young Women to Watch in the New Century” She has written for many national newspapers, magazines and was also a writer for “The George Lopez Show”. She currently has four books out:
Chicana Falsa- a collection of short stories and poems How to be a Chicana Role Model Honey Blonde Chica- the first in her Honey Blonde series Scandalosa!- second in the series
I have finally kept a New Year’s Resolution for an entire year.If you look back at last year’s post, my New Year’s resolution was to make more frequent post on our blog.Looking back I average about seven posts a month or almost two a week.So I’m proclaiming that I was successful with my resolution.Yippee!
Thanks to my wonderful sister-in-law Sarah, who got me addicted to digital scrapbooking, I have a new resolution this year.A famous scrapbooker Becky Higgins, did a project last year called Project 365.The object of the scrapbook was to take a picture every day and journal about it, that way more of your everyday life gets documents and not just vacations and holidays.Sarah did P365 last year and it was amazing!I love how it captured everyday moments that were meaningful to their family, plus to have so many pictures capture our niece Gracyn growing day-by-day.After see what a wonderful family treasure Sarah made with this project I decided to do a digital version of P365.I’m doing great so far, haven’t missed a day of pictures yet, but must admit I’m already falling behind with the journaling.I’ll try to post completed pages on our blog to share with you.
Our trip started off pretty rough, starting with delayed flights, damaged luggage, not having the car we reserved, and stolen jewelry (my brand new Shaffalie jewelry I just wrote about last week!).Just when my mother proclaimed, “Well, it can’t get any worse.” my dad runs over my husband with the car!Thank God he’s ok and nothing is broken, just rolled over his toe.
We drove to Rothenburg, enjoying the beautiful scenery of snow covered fields and forests.We quickly rushed to the Rothenburg’s Christmas Market in the old city square.We warmed our hands and our tummies with hot spiced mulled wine (Gluhwien ) and enjoyed meter long bratwurst.I even found a yarn shop!
Our bed and breakfast was a really cute and quaint old German Guesthouse inside the old city wall built in 1521.It had a lot of character and was very cozy.There was even a house cat to wake us up in the morning.
Today we drove to Nuremberg and got to the old city center (Hauptmarkt) just in time to see the Frauenkirche strike noon with all its’ bells and moveable pieces spring to life.Then we spent several hours wondering around the famous Chriskindlesmarkt and also spun the gold ring at the Schoner Brunnen for good luck.After another meter long bratwurst and some Lebkuchen (gingerbread) we guided ourselves on a walking tour of old Nuremberg.
We’re warming up in the hotel now and just skyped our family back home to wish them a Merry Christmas.We’ll head down soon to enjoy our Christmas Eve meal at the hotel restaurant.
Tonight we are heading to Germany for Christmas. We will be meeting Kristal's parents there. We are really looking forward to seeing some snow for Christmas and enjoying the Christmas Markets, decorations and holiday cheer!
We miss all of our family and friends back home and wish you all a Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.
I (Kristal) had a chance of a Lifetime opportunity today. I got to join the sixth grade class on their field trip to Taposiris Magna.
It's about an hour west of Alexandria in a town called Abu Sir and has an ancient temple and a one tenth size replica of the Great Pharos Lighthouse of Alexandria. The "chance of a lifetime experience" was the fact that this sight is NOT open to the public because monumental archeology studies are currently underway here in hope of finding the lost tombs of lovers Marc Anthony and Cleopatra. So why you ask did we get to go to a closed site excavation? Well, because the head archeologist Kathleen Martinez from the Dominican Republic has her daughter in Schutz while she is here working on the research.
It was so exciting to be at a place that few people have been allowed to go. There has hardly even been any articles or even photos published yet. Discovery Channel is making a documentary so keep on the look out maybe next year. It would be so exciting if they do discover the lost tombs; for me to say that I was their while they were doing the excavation, and saw it years before any tourist were allowed on site.
Unfortunately, Kathleen was very sick today and was not able to be here today to give us the tour herself, but another great archeologist showed us around. He took us inside the temple and showed us many sites that they have excavated and took us down into many tunnels that they had found. He also took us inside thepylons, showed us some artifacts that they had found and were storing there, then we were able to climb up and stand on top of the temple walls. Unfortunately, we were limited on what we were allowed to take pictures of since this is still a closed site and not open to the public, they don't want certain finds to be broadcast before they publish them. However, I was still allowed to take many pictures of many wonderful things...just not any of the "really good stuff". But I'll have those memories for myself for the rest of my life.
Then we went over to the cemetery which was just discovered this year! We watched as workers and archeologist worked together to excavate some tombs that they had just discovered within the past month. We went down into almost all of the tombs that have been fully excavated. At one tomb, we had to one by one be lowered into a hole and then crouch down, when you crouch down you are literally face to face with two mummies just inches away from you! In many of the other tombs there are full skeletons laying open. It was amazing. Unfortunately I wasn't able to take any pictures of these, but if you watch the videos below, you can see some of what I saw.
We walked over to the little lighthouse and were able to climb up onto it and got a great view of the sea and the temple grounds.
I feel really bad, because Seth almost was able to go on this trip too, but with school closing for H1N1 he unfortunately had to be a good teacher and devote his time to his students. I was truly blessed to be granted this opportunity today and I will remember it for the rest of my life.
Below are several youtube videos about the project site, some are by Zahi Hawass, the Supreme Council of Antiquities in Egypt (you'll recognize him from so many National Geographic documentaries) and also Kathleen Martinez herself.
Several of my girlfriends and I went to a Jewelry show today. The designer, Shafalie, is a friend of one of our staff members and we went to one of her Open Houses last year. She custom made both our mom’s necklaces for Mother’s Day last year. They have their name, their husbands name and both of their children’s names written in Arabic with the word for protection in the middle.
She also custom made a necklace for me, so I could wear Seth’s name (in Arabic) close to my heart. (picture coming)
This year I bought a few more pieces for myself. (Pictures coming)
That night we went to the Christmas Party at the American Cultural Center. The Cultural Center is a old Mansion and it was decorated beautifully with a Christmas tree and poinsettias everywhere. There were tons of good cookies and Christmas treats and they had real nice activities for kids like making Gingerbread houses and Christmas movies. There was even a small Christmas bazaar with crafts from local businesses. The highlight of the night was a special visit from Santa!
It’s a tradition here at Schutz for the residents to get together and decorate the dinning room and put up a Christmas tree together. We enjoyed some yummy hot coco, decorated some sugar cookies and sang along with some Holiday music. I giggle every time I get “Let it Snow, Let it Snow, Let it Snow” stuck in my head. “Let it sand storm, Let it sand storm, Let it sand storm,” just doesn’t flow as well. On Friday several of us went down to Cairo for a large Christmas Bazaar put on by the Cairo American College. There were over fifty vendors there, most selling handmade crafts a few selling Christmas crafts. Some of the crafts were made by the nuns of the Coptic Church, some were NGO’s who teach the Bedouin women a craft to earn a living, and some were crafts made out of the recycled materials from the Zabbalin village in Coptic Cairo. (see previous post for explanation). The cards they made out of recycled paper was probably the most purchased item at the bazaar, I was very impressed with their quality, and to make them even better, each was embroidered with an Egyptian or Christmas scene. I really enjoyed my shopping trip and when crazy buying local crafts. I got some exquisite glass blown figurines, a clay figuring of two women greeting each other from a nun of the Coptic Church, and embroidered purse, and my pride and joy of the trip is a huge wall hanging completely hand embroidered with Egyptian scenes. They also had some great food, including bagels which are a huge treat for us here. We all bought some to take home to our husbands since none of us bought anything for them. We stopped at a nice restaurant before the drive back to Alex and had a lovely dinner. While we were there, some of the men that came along with us decided they wanted to place a Drinkies order. Drinkies is the alcohol store in Egypt. And yes, you call and place an order and they deliver to you in a matter of minutes. In Cairo they carry a brand of beer called Luxor that they don’t carry in Alexandria. We really confused the Drinkies store as well as our waiter of why guest in the restaurant were calling to place an order. But after a few laughs and an explanation that we can’t get Luxor in Alex we had three cases of beer delivered right to our table.